All You Didn’t Know About Perfume
A perfume is a concentrated blend of fragrance compounds, which can be derived either from natural aromatic plant extracts, or synthetically. Modern perfumes such as Inis Perfume may contain tens or hundreds of ingredients.
Origins
Up until recently, perfumes are made from natural substances. They were mainly derived from plant materials such as flowers, herbs, spices and resins, as well as from animals such as ambergris, musk, beaver castor, civet and guaiacum. The modern perfume industry has expanded and started using synthetic aroma chemicals. This has allowed them to create scents which are almost impossible to produce with natural products.
Perfume is a product with a long and rich history. It began in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt and Mesopotamia where scented oils and perfumes were used to enhance religious ceremonies and personal appearance. The Romans, Arabs and others refined the art of perfume making. It was a luxury in high society. Ibn Sina, also known as Avicenna, developed the distillation technique that allows liquid perfumes to be extracted from raw ingredients. His invention revolutionized western chemistry and the perfume industry.
The earliest perfumes consisted of crude mixtures made from oil and crushed herbs or flowers that were applied directly on the skin. They were typically mixed with essential oils or aromatic alcohols such as jojoba, almond, apricot or grapefruit oils. The most popular flower oils for fragrance were rose, jasmine, and frankincense. Fragrance extracts from plants such as cinnamon, bergamot, hyacinth and citrus were also common additions.
In the 13th century the Crusaders knights brought new toiletry products and perfume formulas back to Europe. Initially people used these new products to protect themselves from diseases and improve their appearance. Over time, people began to use fragrance as a way of self-adornment.
The French perfume industry was established in the 18th century. This is when perfume became popular. The court of Louis XV was famously called “la cour parfume” or the perfumed court. Madame de Pompadour used a lot of perfume, and the King used different perfumes every day.
A perfume is made up of three notes: the top, the heart, and the base. The top notes are the smallest molecules and evaporate quickly. The base notes, which usually include woods, amber, and musk, are the last to fade and are more intense than the heart notes.
Creation process
Perfume is a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients. These ingredients can be grouped into different olfactory family groups to create fragrances for specific audiences. They can also evoke memories, emotions, or even have a healing effect on the user.
The first step to creating a perfume is to find an inspiration. This may come from an image, a memory or an olfactory sensation. Once the perfumer is aware of what they hope to achieve, a brief is created which details not only how the perfume should smell but also the story behind it and to whom it is targeted.
The perfumer then selects the raw ingredients that will be combined to create the scent. The ingredients are then extracted using methods such as distillation, enfleurage and maceration. The oils can be blended by the perfumer according to a formula that takes years to perfect. It could contain up to 800 different ingredients.
After the fragrance is formulated, it must be tested to make sure it meets the brief. It also needs to work well on different skin types. It is usually diluted with ethanol and smelt on a mouillette to see how it wears, diffuses and lingers. The perfumer will make any necessary changes and re-test until the fragrance is perfected.
The base is then added to the fragrance by the perfumer, which helps anchor and prolong the scent. These bases can be made from a variety of natural and synthetic ingredients, such as resins, wood scents or amber bases. Perfumers also use a variety of blending ingredients to smooth the transition between a perfume’s top notes, middle notes and base. Lastly, fixatives are added to help the perfume last longer and protect it from degradation.
Animal substances such as castor oil from beavers, musk from deer males and ambergris derived from the digestive tracts of sperm Whales are added to perfumes for depth and richness. Modern perfumery has moved on from these raw materials and now uses synthetic chemicals that have the same olfactory properties as natural ingredients but are cheaper to make.
Concentrations
Perfumes are available in different scent concentrations, which determine the duration of the perfume once it is applied. The concentration of a perfume will also determine its strength and how it reacts to the skin. There are four standard concentrations of fragrances: Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette (EDT), Eau de Cologne and Eau Fraiche. Each concentration is designed for a specific purpose, and will react differently depending on your unique body chemistry.
The ratio of perfume oils and water to ethanol determines the concentration of fragrance. The higher the percentage of perfume oils, the longer the perfume will last. As the concentration increases, however, the scent can become overpowering and cloying.
In general, perfumes with higher concentrations of perfume oil will have a stronger and more noticeable aroma that can last up to 8 hours on average. This is because a perfume with higher concentrations of perfume oil will have more aroma molecules, which will last longer once it evaporates from the skin.
Perfumes containing lower concentrations of fragrance oil will have a lighter scent that will fade faster after application. They are often used as colognes, or as men’s eau de tliure sprays.
Eau Fraiche was created to meet the increasing demand for lighter, more fresher perfumes. It has a low concentration of 1%-3% perfume concentrate and is typically formulated with natural ingredients for a cleaner, more casual fragrance.
The parfum is the most concentrated perfume, containing 25-45% oil. This is the strongest and longest-lasting of all the perfume concentrations and is known for its obvious and long-lasting scent. Although there are no industry standards as to what constitutes a parfum, most people describe it as having a more intense and stronger scent than an eau de parfum or eau de cologne. It is the most expensive perfume concentration and is usually reserved for special occasions.
Categories
The perfume industry categorizes fragrances based on the oil concentration and olfactory properties that they emit. This is referred to as the Fragrance Wheel, which aids perfumers and perfume lovers by grouping scent families that share similar characteristics together. Family members that appear side-by-side on the wheel are most similar to each other and blend well together, while those that are separated by a greater distance have more distinct characteristics.
Depending on which scent family a perfume belongs to, it may have notes that are classified as masculine, feminine, or unisex. Gender-neutral scents have gained in popularity over the past few years. They challenge gender norms, and provide more inclusive options for men and women. These perfumes typically have a harmonious blend of scents that are neither overtly masculine nor feminine, and they are often described as calming or relaxing.
Floral scents in perfume are often associated with femininity. These scents consist of synthetic compounds like linalool, coumarin and floral extracts that are similar to the scents from various flowers. This scent category also includes floral bouquets, which are combinations of several flower smells.
Fresh scents are bright, clean smells that are popular in both men’s and women’s perfumes. This category can include many different scents. It is most commonly used for green perfumes with crushed leaves and grass, or oceanic fragrances that mimic the freshness from sea spray and rain.
Woody scents are often associated with masculinity and remind us of the earthy smells from trees and forests. These scents can be combined with floral, citrusy, or aquatic notes to create a variety of unique fragrances.
Oriental fragrances can be considered the most sophisticated, luxurious and elegant. They are also a good choice for special occasions. These perfumes are made with ingredients like amber, musk and vetiver. These are often associated with seduction and sensuality.